Magic in Kulaman
My last day in Senator Ninoy Aquino started out terribly. I woke up at 7AM, having somehow slept through my phone alarm. It was long past sunrise, and I had no chance of being in my birding spot during peak hours. Dante the motorbike driver was long gone as well, as I had not been awake at the scheduled pick-up time. I sent him a text nonetheless to see if he was still available, but began contemplating just leaving SNA early without another day of birding. Thankfully all was not lost, however, as Dante roared up to my hotel half an hour later, having received my text and having nothing better to do that day except ferry a strange foreigner around to unknown places. On the motorbike ride into Barangay Kuden, I was never more thankful that he drives twice the speed that any sane person should go on the twisty dirt back roads. We picked up my Barangay-appointed guide, a Manobo man who was the sitio leader in the area, and continued on to the forest. The forest road ...